Pre-Ride check list, don’t forget!

 

I am writing this article well in advance as a reminder to all that have big plans for the up and coming holiday weekend, Independence Day (4th of July) weekend.  Why so early?  Planning ahead early makes the loading and leaving for that big weekend of camping, riding, racing that much less stressful.  Thinking ahead now still gives you time to order and receive those replacement parts that you broke on your last outing, without having to pay for upgraded shipping services (were available).  It may also be a good time to change those fluids if you cannot remember the last time you did, although if you read this blog you already keep a log of when that was.  Maybe it is time to fix that tire that always goes flat every day.  Bottom line is make a checklist of things you know you need to remember to get done or pack regarding your machine and its transportation.  Below are some items to get you started.

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Quick Tip, cure those annoying rattles

Here is a quick tip for those of you running any type of skid plate or other bolt on parts that contact the frame.

Isn’t it annoying, you installed that new set of belly pan and a-arm skid plates and now your machine sounds like a pissed off bumble bee at anything less than full throttle.  Well here is a tip that comes from our own ATV magazine forum.  Before you install those skid plates, go to your local hardware store and pick up a short roll of a single coated closed cell foam tape (such as 3M’s 4516, but any cheap brand will work).  I suggest getting the thinest you can find but thickness doesn’t matter all that much. 

Start by test fitting your parts and noting where the skid plates contact the frame or any other metal to metal area.   Mark these areas with a magic marker.  Take your tape and stick it to the frame in the areas you marked.  Install your skid plates sandwiching the tape between the frame and the skid plate.  Presto! you vibration woes are now a thing of the past.

This tip can be used anywhere you need to isolate vibration.

Special tools for special jobs

If your a do-it-yourself type of person it is sometimes hard to determine where your abilities as well as your tool set end and when to call in and expert-a atv/motorcycle specific mechanic.  This article will suggest a few of these special tools that can be had fairly inexpensively.  Having these tools will also allow the do-it-yourself er to tackle more of the routine maintenance that other people would pay a shop $80 an hour to do. If you have not read my introductory article on “Getting your toolbox started” Read that first before proceeding.

Spark Plug wrench: Alright now most people would not consider this a “special” tool but in some cases (depending on engine design and model of ATV) a more specialized wrench other than a standard socket and ratchet is needed or just makes the job easier. Using either one of the tools shown makes accessing some spark plugs much simpler and faster. Think of it this way instead of hunting in your tool box for the correct sized open end wrench or that socket and ratchet, keep these handy for quick removal. I suggest buying one for each bike you have and storing it on the machine some where.

Axle nut wrench: This tool is especially helpful and almost necessary for proper removal or checking the tightness of your axle nuts or replacing the carrier bearings. It always seems that they loosen at the most inopportune times. With out this tool it is nearly impossible for most people to service their axle. Atv axle nuts typically run in the 40-50mm size range. Ham fist-ed mechanics and do-it-yourself-ers typically get out a pipe wrench or if they happen to have a 24 inch adjustable (Cresent) wrench to do the job. This is the best way to strip or round off the corners of the axle nuts thus necessitating replacement. Again I suggest buying the correct size for each machine you have and keeping them in the toolbox you take riding.

Valve adjustment tools: If you read my recent article “Lashing out, valve adjustments a brief introduction” I spoke about the different types of valve train arrangements. Well when it comes to tools it will depend on what you have. Feeler gauges are mandatory to do your own valve adjustments. Get the kind specifically for motorcycles, they are either bent with a 45 degree or 90 degree angle to get into the tight spots.

Clutch basket holding tool: If you have a fully manual or semi-automatic
transmission/clutch, this is one of those tools that is not always necessary (if you have shop air and an impact) but it always makes doing any type of clutch work a snap, especially if your replacing the basket or inner hub and bearings. There are several different types ranging from the universal style to ones from the OEM that are make and model specific. If you ever plan on doing your own clutch work this is an indispensable tool that is relativity cheap.

Flywheel puller: This tool is somewhat universal as in typically there are only a few sizes and threading that it will not fit. This tool is mandatory if you ever plan on doing ANY repairs or upgrades to your ignition system as well as repairs to the left side crank bearing and seal. This is another fairly inexpensive tool to have on hand in case you need to get to the ignition pickup that is behind the flywheel or take the flywheel off for lightening.

Snap ring pliers: Here is one that you will need if you start going deeper into internal engine repairs as many gears and shafts are retained by snap rings. One thing to note is buy the best quality you can, cheap pliers are just that, cheap, and generally break or bend on the larger snap rings. Trust me I have learned the hard way on this busting many knuckles.

Piston pin puller: This tool is sometimes required to remove the piston from the connecting rod during a top end rebuild. Its the only way to get the bin out if its somehow wedged or worn that it will not slide out by hand. By the way some pins are a press fit and a puller is absolutely required.

Alright I could go on and on getting deeper and deeper into more machine specific and job specific into the internal engine repairs, I just wanted to give an introduction into some of the most common “specialized” tools that the home mechanic will invariably need doing their own repairs.

Now when to take the machine into a professional for service is a tough one and its basically up to the riders discretion. Personally I take my machine in for jobs requiring extremely specialized tools that would cost $500 or more just to complete one step in the repair process. Examples would be: Boring or reaming cylinders or valve seats, replacement of valve guides and seats, crank bearing replacement, crank splitting, cylinder sleeve replacement and the list goes on. Unless your doing these operations on your equipment frequently enough, these tools are too expensive to have sitting around just for a once in the machines lifetime repair. Obviously you need to be skilled with some of these operations and that is where leaving it to a professional shop really pays, as most warranty their work for a period of time against workmanship.

In conclusion the tools listed above will allow the competent home mechanic to broaden his/her abilities to save a bit of labor cost on somewhat more labor intensive repairs than just changing the oil and filter.

Bouncin’ back, maintain your suspension

Next to improving your riding skills, the suspension is probably the most important or easiest and most cost effective way to increase your speed on the trail or track.  In the coming articles I will go in-depth on the different designs and types of suspensions as well as some theory and tuning tips, but in this primer I will discuss the most important thing you should do before even trying to tune your suspension.  Maintenance!

 

Before you can effectively tune any suspension on any machine you need it to be in near perfect condition.  If you have never disassembled any part of your machines suspension since you have owned the machine, chances are its well over due.  Neglecting the maintenance on the items that keep the wheels (and ultimately the power) to the ground can cause costly repairs down the road, not to mention a poorly handling machine.

Where to start?

Its best to start from the front and work to the rear.  Jack or lift your machine so that the wheels are off the ground.  Take each front wheel and check for excessive play in the wheel bearings by grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o’clock and try to rock the rim/tire back and forth.  Watch and feel the bearing for any play.  Most wheel bearings on ATVs are non serviceable meaning if you feel any play you cannot adjust the pre-load nor grease them, thus replacement is the only option.  Repeat for the other side. 

Next focus on the a-arm(s) ,depending on the type of front suspension you have, check all mounting points and bushings (or bearings) for play.  Some models have grease zerks but most do not.  If your model does not you will need to disassemble the a-arms and put some waterproof grease in the bushings (or bearings).  Again excessive play warrants replacement as it is cheaper to replace an inexpensive bushing that letting it wear through the bushing into the steel of the arm itself.  On McPherson strut type machines you will want to pay close attention to the top mounting stud to be sure the nut is tight and the rubber bushings are in good shape.

Finish in the rear

Depending on the type and design you will want to look at some of the similar things as the front suspension.  The carrier bearing is probably the most expensive wear item on a swing arm machine, not to mention its the hardest to replace, so keep an eye on it so you don’t ruin your swing arm.  Swing arm and the shock linkage bearings should come next.  A quick way to check to see if they are worn or the bolts need tightening is to lift up on the grab bar while the tires are on the ground.  It might be helpful to have a friend do this as you watch around the bearing mounting flanges and the linkage areas for play.  While lifting up slowly you might even be able to feel the play all the way back at the grab bar.  The rear suspension is a place that many riders neglect and when its worn out it can cause damage to more expensive parts.  Rebuild kits are inexpensive and for the most part easy to install with basic hand tools.  If there is little or no play a good cleaning and re-greasing should be an annual maintenance item.  On IRS type machines the same type of checks should be performed  as on the front.  Another area to take a look at is the lower and upper shock mounts.  On some types of shocks there are grease-able bearings others use  bushings, use the same judgment and replace as necessary.

Tips and suggestions

If your trying to remove the old bearings from the linkage block (on a link-aged type swing arm) and they are being stubborn.  Use an inexpensive arbor press use a socket just small enough to fit inside the bore and press the old bearings out.  A large bench vise can be used as well with some creativity.  If neither of those are available, find a welding or machine shop, they usually have different presses and may do it for a nominal fee.

If your machine did not come with grease zerks on the a-arm bushings install some yourself.  This can be kind of involved but basically drill and tap a hole for a standard zerk.  This will require a full disassemble.

Water-proof marine grease works well for suspension parts, although some atv/motorcycle specific greases are available as well.

The time you take now can keep you from having to replace expensive parts later.  Also getting your suspension mounting points in tip top shape will get you ready for future articles when I go in depth into the other workings of the suspension.  I will take each subject separate as there is a lot of material to cover, so stay tuned!

Breathin’ easy, Air filter maintenance

Every type of engine, either combustion or otherwise, requires filtered air to maximize its longevity and performance. In this article I will go through some air filter basics and recommended practices that will in turn give your ATV a long and relatively trouble free life.

As far as ATV air filters go each filter is unique to each machine but the function is exactly the same unfortunately because of engineering constraints some are easier to service than others, but that should never be an excuse to be lax on air filter maintenance.

Air filters can be made of different materials but three are most common, paper, cotton gauze, and foam all are suitable for the job but each has certain advantages and disadvantages which are as follows. Note: this analysis is my opinion based on personal experience and fact.

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