Unusual Mud Protection: 6 Quick Tips

If you had plans to go riding or racing and the weather snuck up on you (although I can’t quite fathom in this day and age how that could happen), then try these tips to help your sport quad survive the slop.

Drink it for the protein and bone support, then protect your hands and controls. Recycle when finished.

1-gallon Milk Jugs

These make for quick-fix handguards if you failed to install or pack yours. We’ve seen a few racers install these makeshift protectors. The larger jugs work best because they are more flexible and easier to custom fit to your quad’s bars. Talk about recycling!

Scratch Pads

Some racers I know add kitchen scouring pads to act as a makeshift glove cleaner. In a really muddy race, your gloves will get wet and muddy, but by adding a pad like this to the top or upper rear section of your helmet, you could keep riding instead of stopping for new gloves.

Extra Lens

Many GNCC racers tape an old goggle lens on to their visor to improve its length and mud protection. Roost is one of the biggest culprits of slowing you down. Another rider can roost you with mud, which always finds a way of hitting you in the face, goggles and hands. This longer custom visor can help you, but it can also get super heavy if too much mud comes your way.

Duct tape is so versatile, you can even match your quad's color scheme.

Duct Tape

I know it can be used for practically everything, including clothes, automotive repairs and wallpaper, but I’m talking about covering parts of your ATV. I’ve seen several racers run duct tape on their front bumper to the plastic and then coat it with PAM cooking spray to act as both a radiator guard and anti mud shield.

Paper Towels

Believe it or not, if you keep a few extra (and dry) paper towels in your waterproof jacket (if you wear one), you can also improve your hand grip – at least temporarily – by using the paper towels as grip covers. I’ve seen several of the top ATV racers go through their pits and grab two paper towels for the final lap instead of stopping to clean their grips or get new gloves.

Garbage Bag

Yes, this one is for you more than your quad, but any heavy-duty yard waste bag will work as a rain poncho during a long race. The downside? Someone may call you trashy or toss you to the side of the curb. Oh, and it gets really warm under one of these plastic sacks.

These are just some of the basic off-road racing/riding tricks I’ve learned over the years. Although some of them are quite simple and rather obvious, many riders can forget to pack parts and accessories and need fast fixes. Do you have any tips of your own to improve your sport quad’s mudding abilities? How about something you wear during a muddy event?

Quick Tip, Homemade number plate

I got the inspiration for this blog from a question that was asked in our own ATV Magazine Forum.  A forum member needed a solution for a quick, cheap, and easy number plate so he could participate in a race coming up soon.  Here is my condensed response.

Materials needed:

White 5 gallon plastic bucket (can probably found in the trash or thrift store)

Tin snips, heavy scissors, or grinder with cut off wheel (basically any tool that will cut thick plastic)

High temp heat gun or propane torch (use caution with the torch!)

400-600 grit sandpaper (optional, for prepping the plastic for paint)

Spray paint (optional, depending on if you need the back round color other than white)

Process:

Start off by cutting out the desired shape of the number plate from the side of the plastic bucket.  Once you have the shape the way you like it, carefully take the heat gun or propane torch and gently heat the plastic to make it malleable. Keep the heat source moving to prevent melting or burning, take your time and be patient. Once the plastic is malleable start to flatten out the piece using the heat when necessary as the plastic cools. Once the plastic is as flat as you can get it, set a heavy block on top and wait about an hour or so for the plastic to fully cool. The heavy block will keep the plastic from having a “memory” and curling up on you. It must be noted that it will be nearly impossible to create a perfectly flat piece of plastic, but it will be flat enough for mounting on the ATV.

Now comes the optional part of the process.  If you chose not to buy a $7 pack of vinyl numbers here is a way to put numbers on your plate with a little bit of time and effort.  There are several ways to paint numbers on your plate, free hand, stencil, or masking.  I would advise against free hand unless you have a steady hand and can paint well with an artists brush.  Stencils can be picked up at most hobby stores but if your still too cheap to spend $5 on pre-made stencils you can make your own at home with items you already have. Using printer/copy/card stock draw and cut out numbers creating a “negative” that you can apply on the plate. Use the 400-600 grit sandpaper to rough up the plastic to give the paint something to “bite” into. Clean the plastic well before the next step. Using tape and some children’s glue sticks stick the stencil on the plate and paint over it using light coats (especially with printer paper as there is a risk of bleed through). After the paint is thoroughly dry, remove the stencil and clean off the glue with some isopropyl alcohol. You can also achieve the same effect by covering the entire plate with blue painters tape, then cutting out the number shapes (on the plate) with a sharp razor blade or hobby knife. Paint and remove the tape to complete the job. For extra protection you can use a clear coat over your finished work.

Don’t be stranded because of a broken clutch cable

Don't let this keep you stranded on the trail!

For those of us that have machines with manual clutches operated by a cable you know that a broken cable on the trail can be the pits and in some cases leave you stranded.  This little tip can really get you out of a jamb.

Before your current clutch cable breaks, purchase a new clutch cable and install it next to the current.   Now you have a spare clutch cable at the ready if you need it.

Leave the spare clutch cable in place. Lightly lube the spare clutch cable. Seal the ends of the spare clutch cable with electrical tape, duct tape, or shrink tubing to keep water, mud and other debris out.

If you break a clutch cable while you are on the trail, just remove the broken one and install the new one.  Just remember to have the basic tools for the job.   This will keep you from terrorizing your transmission with clutch less shifts.

Polishing aluminum parts

Want all that aluminum on your ride to glisten in the sunshine?  Want to be the envy of all your ridding buddies?  Read on for a step by step process to shine up those aluminum parts to a mirror shine. 

A special thanks to the folks at Thumper Talk for this helpful information.

Here is a definitive guide on how to polish any aluminum surface to a mirror shine.

Items Needed:
- Oven Cleaner
- 200, 400, 600, 1000 and 2000 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper
- Polishing Cream
- Wax
- Clear Coat (Optional)

Step 1:
Clean the dirt off the part to be polished

Step 2:
Spray your part with oven cleaner to strip the corrosion off. (I use Easy Off)

Step 3:
Begin sanding with the 200 grit sandpaper across the grain. Do so until the grain is almost gone. (Make sure to keep the sandpaper wet). There will be a considerable amount of black stuff (oxidized aluminum).

Step 4:
Take the 400 grit and sand in the same direction until the grain is all gone
(still keeping it wet).

Step 5:
Take the 600 grit and sand this time in a swirling pattern until all you see is swirls (still wet).

Step 6:
Repeat step 5 but with the rest of the sand paper, using a higher grit each time.

Step 7:
By now your part will have a very shiny finish and you may be satisfied, but now take your polishing cream and buff your part until it is mirror shiny.

Step 8:
Wax your part just like you would a car.

Step 9 (Optional):
Apply a spray on clear coat to your part to help protect it.

To restore your shine:
Simply start at step 1 & 2 but then skip to step 7.

Watch as people stare at themselves in your shiny parts.

Quick Tip: Fixing a carburetor float

OK I know more and more ATV’s are coming equipped with EFI (electronic fuel injection), but the overwhelming majority of used machines in service still have carburetors.  The purpose of a carburetor float is to maintain the proper amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl for both the pilot circuit and main jet to draw fuel into the venturi from.  If you are experiencing fuel flowing out the overflow tubes (usually running out under the machine) its a good chance your float is sinking.  The chief reason the float sinks is that it over time it can get a pin hole leak, most commonly it happens around the solder joint where the float arm attach’s on a brass float, on a plastic float it happens where the brass arm is pressed onto the float bodies.  Either way the float bodies sink thus leaving the needle valve open letting unrestricted fuel into the bowl flooding the carburetor and in some cases running fuel straight into the cylinder washing down into the crankcase-”not good”.  What do you do?  Well if the float is still available from the OEM that is one route, although in some cases the part is obsolete.

Over the years working on vintage bikes I have come across a trick to fix obsolete floats or save money buying sometimes expensive OEM or NOS-OEM floats.  I have found a product called POR-15 (Paint Over Rust formula 15)   I actually stumbled across this “miss-application” by accident while using the product for rust prevention/elimination while doing automotive restorations.  I had been spraying panels and fender wells with the stuff and after trying to clean up recently dried POR-15 I found that all the solvents I tried would not dissolve this stuff including gasoline.  Well after ruining a spray gun, it got me thinking of a current motorcycle project I was working on (1973 Kawasaki 350 triple) that needed all 3 floats replaced and since the bike is somewhat rare and nearly all carburetor parts are obsolete, I dipped the floats into the POR-15 let it dry completely and then put them in a can with some gasoline overnight.  Sure enough the floats, floated and the POR-15 was intact and still hard.

The quick fix

So long story short, if your in need of a quick fix for a sinking float that is either very expensive or not available, try POR-15.  Note: the manufacture does not whats so ever claim this as an application nor recommend that its product be used in this manor, nor warranties it for this purpose. Use at your own risk.

For more information about POR-15 CLICK HERE

Asian 450cc ATVs and motorcycles?

I saw this posted over on a pit bike/mini bike forum that has some forums dedicated to the Asian pit bikes.  There are reports of spy photos of the Asians trying to enter into the lucrative ‘big bike” market, more specifically the 450cc class.  Doing a bit of searching there apparently is a 450cc water cooled ATV out in the midst as well.  Below are some photos lifted from www.planetminis.com.  The motor appears to share some design characteristics with Honda’s Uni-cam design.  Very little info is known at this time, but apparently they have been spotted in Australia of all places.  I bring this here as things like this intrigue me as it appears that the Asians are getting more serious about entering the performance market.  Only time will tell if their designs will be met with good reception.  I personally think its generally good as it gives the consumer more choices as well as more competition.  Its obvious that the Asian market of ATVs and motorcycles will take a while to gain the momentum and recognition, similar to what Japan did/had to do in through the 60’s.  The Asian manufactures (mostly American companies using Asian manufacturing plants) have steadily gained momentum in the mini/pit bike market bringing some pretty high quality stuff at very reasonable prices.  Anyways for your enjoyment here are some photos of what could be coming from Asian in the near future.

Product Spotlight, Star-Tron Fuel treatment

If your big into the marine world, especially with ocean going vessels you probably are already familiar with this product.  As a power sports enthusiast with many motorcycles and other small engines I have tried nearly every fuel treatment or stabilization product that I can get my hands on. 

Star-Tron is the latest in  my quest for the “best” in fuel stabilization.  Star-Tron’s claim to fame is in the marine world in controlling water in the fuel and problems with Ethanol and MTBE in marine spec’d tanks. 

Product Description

Yamaha’s new YZ engine design, will the YFZ benefit?

Regular readers of my articles know I am not an engineer, nor some fancy pants engine builder, I don’t claim to be either.  What I am is a motorcycle enthusiast with a side of ATV interest. (read my bio HERE )  So when the motorcycle side of the industry introduces a interesting new concept to mass production, my eyebrows raise and my mind thinks “Will this translate to ATV technology and design?”

Inside the new YZ450F engine

Yamaha has pretty much shocked the motocross world with a complete redesign of their YZ450F motocross bike, especially in the engine department.  In a nutshell Yamaha has turned the engine (specifically the top end) back wards putting the intake in the front and the exhaust in the rear.  The cylinder is also offset from the crankshaft to maximize the transmission of the downward force on the compression stroke.  When you think about it, that is how it should have always been   Mass centralization is the name of the game as well as more power from the better flow characteristics.  Now this concept is not entirely new, Yamaha used this type of layout on their 2 stroke GP bikes in the 80’s.  Of course Cannodale used a similar layout as well as Huesaburg has their intake in the front although their engine is even more radical as it uses a stacked transmission (much like a sport bike).  Usually these types of radical departure from the norm either succeed or fade into obsucrity (a-la the CRF250 with its dual exhaust).

Why go into all this when the development is not even on an ATV?  Well much like my last blog entry, I want to ask the question,  When (and if) we will see this technology be translated over to the ATV world?  My personal opinion is “yes” but probably not for a few years.  However in saying that, why is it that sport ATVs generally lag behind in the performance development?  The only notable exception is with the LTZ450 having EFI before the motocross bike, but even that is a moot point as Gas Gas pioneered EFI on a dirt bike and ATV back in the early 2000’s. I am interested in your thoughts on the subject.  Leave a comment or discuss it on our own ATV Forum.

Engine configuration explained

250″F” based sport ATVs, Is there a market?

This is something I have wondered about since 2004.  Why 2004 your ask?  Well in 2004 all the major motocross bike manufacturers had a 250cc “F” (high performance 4 stroke) in their line up.  This obviously was the last nail in the coffin for the 125cc 2 stroke motocross bike. 

Is the ATV world ready for a 250cc, 40hp, fire breathing sport quad?

Seeing the success of how the manufacturers transitioned a version of their motocross/off road 450cc “F” engines into a decent sport inspired frame and suspension, one would think the next logical step would be a light weight sport inspired quad with a borrowed 250cc “F” engine.  It seems logical that there should be a market for it as a stepping stone for racers up and coming out of the mini atv ranks.  I mean, the mini race atv market has some excellent high performance machines to choose from to get the future Tim Farrs and Bill Balances off to a good start.  And with some of the Asian brands (such as Pitster Pro and SSR) bringing legitimate mini racers into the ring, youth atv racing has a good foundation.  It must be noted that NONE of the major Japanese manufactures currently build a race ready mini atv.  

Unlike up and coming youth racers in motorcycle motocross, stepping up from their 85cc two stroke or 150cc four stroke mini cycles to full sized (125cc two strokes in the past)  250cc four stroke machines, youth atv racers have really no stepping stone to the 450cc ATVs if they want to be riding a legitimate race machine.  Even a recreational sport ATV user could benefit from having high performance 250cc ATV, not only as a stepping stone, but they could be priced affordable between the youth ATVs and the 450’s.  My guess would be they could be priced in the $5,000 range.  A 250cc “F” based ATV (if designed right) could be incredibly light, agile, and powerful.  Typical stock 250 “F” motocross bikes make just under 40 horsepower from the factory and are very quick revving, having redlines up around 13,000 RPM.  For some reason my logic and thinking must flawed or outrageous, because we have yet to even hear a rumor of any such ATV.  My eyebrow raised a bit when buzz of the Raptor 250 coming out, until I saw in the specs that the power plant would be just another ho-hum low compression air-cooled 250cc SOHC engine (probably borrowed from the XT or TTR250).  Like we haven’t seen that for the last 20 years.

My opinion on why such an ATV has not yet existed is as follows.  In racing the current AMA/ATVA sanctioned class rules for Pro “A” and Am “A” production classes state machines up to 450cc.  At that skill level why would a racer choose a less than maximum displacement machine.  To best market these machines the AMA/ATVA would have to make a dedicated up to 250cc class.  Although even with the current classing I believe that a skilled “B” and “C” riders could be very competitive against 450’s.  The current mentality in ATVing is still predominantly Bigger is Better so initially they would be rejected.

Credit: Motorcycleusa.com, even in 2007 the 250F's put out amazing power.

On the recreational side I think its an even tougher sell.  Borrowing the mentality from the racers of Bigger is Better (or faster), the average recreational rider is usually less informed or even ignorant about the shear performance differences of say a 250EX (14 hp) vs. a CRF250 (38hp) powered ATV.    The reality of it is 90% of the ATV riders (including me) could be classified as average riders, recreational riders would find a machine like this a very agile and easily ridden trail machine without all the clumsiness of an overpowered 450.  Think of it this way, it is like the difference between a Ford Ranger and a extended cab long box F150, but all you use it for is commuting to and from a desk job, the Ranger is the more logical choice.  Marketing would have to be very skillful in how they advertise and present the 250 “F” machines, so buyers don’t think its an overpriced “chick” quad.

Anyway, that is my opinion.  I do not claim to know anything and it is all speculation.  If you agree or disagree or have an opinion of your own, please leave a comment OR visit the ATV MAGAZINE FORUM and tell the world what you think.

Tips for selling your ATV quick

Invariably in this economy with unemployment at all time highs some ATV’ers will need to sell their ATV.  Whether it be purely for financial reasons (can’t make the payments), needing to downsize/up size, or just getting rid of that “spare” machine that the wife or kids don’t ride anymore.  What follows is some tips on how to get that ATV sold quickly so you can move on-what ever the reason might be.

Cosmetics

Alright if everyone was perfect their machines would be in near immaculate condition, but in reality all machines will have some blemishes or problems.  The key is to set the buyer at ease (by the appearance) that there are no major issues possibly plaguing the machine.  It has been proven that a well kept exterior on a car/truck can increase its ability to sell quickly for top dollar than one that has had its exterior neglected but is still a solid, reliable vehicle.  The same will apply to your ATV, the old adage “Do not judge a book by its cover” does not apply as potential buyers WILL judge your ATV by its initial appearance.

With a little work this ATV could be more appealing to more buyers

What to do: Remove any “custom” graphics or other personalizing items like stickers, numbers ect…  Light scratches can be taken out easily by reading one of my other articles Give your Machine a face lift .  Replace any broken plastic or torn seat covers.  It may cost some on the front end but it will reap benefits on the bottom line in getting all of your asking price as well as the selling in a timely manner. 

Mechanical condition:

Light oil/grease leaks should be thoroughly cleaned.  Major oil leaks should be fixed IF it is financially available to do so.  If the machine is well used and it is apparent that your asking price reflects this don’t bother, just be honest with your buyer.  Fix any obvious broken or worn parts.  DO NOT list your machine in this manner.  Here are some examples of what NOT to do.  Photos withheld for anonymity.

1980 GT 80 – Need it gone – $270

Seriously, need it gone. It’s complete, it used to run before I started messing with it. I have all of the parts.
It leaks a little oil, the tubes in the tires may need to be replaced. It won’t take a lot to get it running again.

The buyer is thinking: Ok, so if it used to run before You started messing with it, what else is wrong with it?  If it will not take a lot to get it running again-then why don’t You have it running and sell it as a running bike?  This seller could probably get a few more dollars and it sold quicker if it was a running bike,   especially because it is a small starter type bike for a child.  Or how about this next one

1994 Yamaha Moto 4 350cc $1300

Good condition, lots of power for hauling that deer out of the woods!  Has racks front and back for hauling good tires.  Needs break lever and kill switch and could use new hand grip gas shut off leaks but I priced all this at Yamaha dealer $50 fixes it.  Hate to see it go.

The buyer is thinking: Ok, if $50 and a simple carb clean will fix it up like new, then why didn’t You spend the $50 and keep riding it?  Better yet why would I pay your asking price if it is (assumable) in non running or safe operable condition.  The red flags are easy to see in this listing.  For one thing the price is too high for such an old machine, but not only that it needs some work before the new owner can even ride it.  If the seller lowers the price a bit, fixes the minor issues (if it is true that all it needs is a carb clean) list it as a fully functional running ATV he will could get close to his original asking price.

As you can see you don’t need to do a complete overhaul of the engine but if the ATV is in decent shape but just not running you can increase the potential for getting top dollar with a running, mechanically sound ATV.

The listing:

This should be a no brainier, but as the examples above and below illustrate spelling and grammar project to your potential buyer your level of intelligence which also gives the buyer a preconceived notion of how diligent the seller might have been with maintenance and repairs.  Obscene spelling and grammar errors can turn a buyer away and click on someone elses ad, even if your machine is the best condition and lowest price.  Below is an example of this.

cr 250 – $550

run great call will trad for a hours trailer call casey @ ###-###-#### no emals thanks

OR

screamin yamaha viagra!!!! – $1350

bad a$$ 82 yamaha virago 750cc v-twin bike. bike looks newer than 82. bike is loud, has lots of stuff done to it, new carbs,carb boots,oil change,k&n air filter,after market mirrors, rear tail light, and blinkers, which one is broken, but the tail light has blinkers in it, so you dotn need the other blinkers. has almost new dunlop tires wit about 300 miles on them. motor crashers, new front fender, new vinyl for seat. bike has original tool set also. bike is really really loud with cobra pipes. loudest one out of the whole pack. this bike is great for a begginer, or a woman, or really any one. 29,000 miles but tha dont stop it. has a little starter problem, starter on ebay is $20 or you can just tap the starter to start, and it starts every time. one great bike. willing to trade for a nice tuck. please call me ###-###-####, i dont check my emails often.

I have a hard time taking these ads seriously enough to even contemplate contacting the seller, even though both of these bikes look “OK” in the photos they provided.  Your listing should be short and sweet and to the point.  No need to write a novel as this will turn buyers off as well.  Telling them every detail in an ad can also raise suspicion that there is something majorly wrong and your trying to draw attention away by talking about all the little meaningless details.  On the converse a six word sentence and contact info doesn’t “hook” the buyer enough to even consider contacting for an appointment to see the machine.  The best ads tell the buyer accurately what is being sold and one or two distinguishing features as well as plenty of contact info.  And most importantly it is formatted correctly with correct spelling and grammar.

Setting your price:

Setting the asking price is quite subjective.  The value can vary greatly from geographical area, demand or popularity for that type of machine in that area, and how many other machines are for sale in your area.  Of course it goes without saying that the condition of the machine is probably the most defining factor.  The best advice I can give is to research your machine’s popularity and what other people are asking for their machines that are similar in nature.  The key is not to try to “chase” the market with an overly high price that you just end up having to keep reducing to even get a nibble of a buyer.  It may be hopefully to ask friends what they would pay for your machine, usually they can give you an insight on what is a fair price that will generate some interest.  Be modest, face it your not going to get new price for a used machine.  ATV’s are considered luxury items and are NOT investments.  If your trying to get out from underneath a loan/lien on the ATV you first will need permission from the lien holder to sell and it is rare to get the exact price that you owe on the machine, so take that in to account when pricing so you don’t overprice just to cover your loan/lien.

A word about upgrades and aftermarket parts.  Just because you put a $800 exhaust system on your machine does not mean you added $800 worth of value to said machine.  with things like this it is always better to sell the exhaust separate if you want some of your $800 back.  Buyers usually want to personalize the machine to their tastes, not buy someone else’s idea of the “perfect” machine.  Aftermarket parts are very taste specific in some cases.  The best approach is to return the machine to as close to stock as possible leaving a blank slate for the buyer.

This is not a comprehensive list of everything you should do when selling your machine, I just wanted to touch the high points.  Remember clean it up, fix it up, and price it right and your buyer will come.

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