Stripped thread, don’t fret
May 26, 2009
This article builds on some tips and tricks from my Removing damaged fasteners article.
Stripped threads are something that strikes fear in even the most seasoned mechanics. Stripped threads will have the novice do-it-yourself-er nearly breaking down in tears. Of course stripped threads seem to always crop up or happen at the most in-opportune times and places. Its always that last fastener that is either a frequently inserted and removed (ie. drain/fill plug) or the last fastener required to finish the assembly. A stripped thread stops you dead in your tracks, unless you have a plan. In this article I will discuss a few methods for common thread repairs.
Causes: Stripped threads are caused by a few things but are most commonly caused by two issues. Issue 1: Dissimilar metals being screwed together, in the example of the drain plug, usually the case is aluminum and the plug is steel. The steel plug wears the aluminum threads out from repeated in-and-out over time as steel is harder than the soft low grade aluminum used in engine cases. Issue 2: Over torqued or tightening of the fastener thus tearing the threads out of the hole.
Remedies: The first one is obvious, tighten and torque the fastener to the proper spec outlined in the service or owners manual. Next would be to use ant-seize compound regularly to help lubricate the threads going in and coming out. This also prevents electrolysis and corrosion from the contact of dissimilar metals
Thread inserts:
Invariably the threads are stripped so you need to replace them with new. There are several ways to do this, from drilling a larger hole and tapping it for a larger fastener, but in the case of a drain plug for example there may not be enough material left to do that or it is just impractical. Here is where thread inserts come into play. There are two major brands Heli-Coil and Time-Sert, essentially both of the end results are the same-brand new threads the exact same size as the original. Each type requires drilling out a slightly bigger hole (removing the existing threads) and tapping the “new” hole for the insert to thread into and lock in place. Now you have instant new threads.
Now to the first timer this will seem intimidating, but take your time and follow the directions. Below are some tips for the first timer.
Tips: Use a thick grease on the drill bit and tap to collect most of the metal filings from falling into places you don’t want them. Go slow with the drill to make sure you are as straight as possible. Work the tap in and out until you create the new threads for the insert, trying to thread it one time all the way through can risk breaking the tap and then you have a real mess as it will be nearly impossible to remove.

Thread repari kits like this one are inexpensive and come with everything you need to do the job.
Thunder in the Sand Returns to Wildwood NJ…this weekend
May 26, 2009
Check out this press release from the crew at Thunder Moto. Coming to the sands of Wildwood, New Jersey this upcoming weekend.
The Wildwoods, NJ- The thrill and excitement of motocross comes to the Wildwoods on May 29-31, 2009. The “Spring Thunder in the Sand” consists of AMA-sanctioned Pro-Am motocross races which range from beginner level to professional. All races take place on the pristine Wildwood beach between Schellenger and Spencer Avenues, which happens to be voted the best beach in New Jersey. This is the only time you can camp on beach and have the back drop of the ocean. Fri kicks off with practice 1-4 price $10 with a drag race at 6:30pm class are $30amature and $40 pro Saturday’s race events start at Noon and Sunday’s events start at 10 a.m.$7.00 for spectators, racers check website for sat and sun practice time gates open Thurs at 6:00pm For additional information and ticket prices, visit www.ThunderMoto.com or call 609.523.8051.
This event held twice each year is excellent for both spectators and competitors alike. Lukaitis Photo has been on hand for the past several years and will once again be in attendance.
Mark this event on you calendar of things to do this weekend.
Take us back to where it all began…
May 19, 2009
There comes a time to look back on just how far we have come. Humanity, evolution, creation, industrialism. You have heard it before to move ahead we have to know where we have been. Relating this to the ATV world I want to take you back to the very beginning. I mean the very beginning when ATVs were unheard of and the ATCs (3 wheelers) just hit the market. For those too young to remember 3 wheelers let this be a history lesson to you. Be thankful of the technology and development you have today. Believe it or not but I started out on my off road journey on one of these exact same machines, the 1970 ATC90.
These photos are scans of Cycle World December 1970 by Parkhurst Publishing Co. all copy writes are held by them.
The title in the contents page reads “Come crash and burn with CYCLE WORLD, as we try a new concept in craziness.”

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Mid Season ATV MX Update
May 17, 2009
Alright, so I’ve been slacking off a bit on “blogging”, I apologize for my lack of opinionated cyber crap as of late. The truth is, it’s been a whirlwind of a season so far, and we’ve been swamped. For starters, the ATV MX National series has been a roller coaster ride thus far. Rockstar/ Makita/ Suzuki’s Dustin Wimmer seemed unstoppable in the first few rounds, that is until he crashed while practicing and took himself out. Honda’s Joe Byrd seemed second fastest, and actually beat Wimmer heads up in Kentucky, and now rumor has it that he’s sidelined with some sort of ankle injury. Monster Energy Kawasaki’s Chad Wienen was a pre-season favorite as well, and while he didn’t come out of the gate as dominant as many expected, he’s now looking like the heir apparent to the points race. The funny thing is, the mysteriously, unconfirmed, possibly injured Byrd is now leading, while the rapidly recovering Wimmer is now in second. Wienen however is healthy as a horse (not to mention as strong as one), and only 31 points out of first, and closing fast. Outside of the Top Three, there are half a dozen guys that can pull off an upset win (especially in Byrd, and Wimmer’s absence); The Can AM teams have got Jeremy Lawson, John Natalie, and a new and improved Cody Miller, Baldwin/ Honda has got Josh Upperman, Kawi’s got Josh Creamer, and you can never count out Suzuki’s Doug Gust (even if he is an AARP member). The bottom line is, there’s plenty of potential for good racing, and we’ve still got six races to go.
The Pro Am Production class is pretty much the same, minus the injuries. The two fastest guys are both named Cody, but that’s where the similarities end. Walsh Racecraft/ Kawasaki’s Cody “Pinball” Gibson has more natural talent than anyone else on the gate, and he’s got balls to match. Gibson is not afraid of letting it all hang out, and will literally bounce his way around the track at mach speeds, impressive, but scary to watch at times. Suzuki City/ Media Allstar’s Cody Grant on the other hand is more of a workhorse, and a bit more calculated. Grant can go, he just does it in a bit older/ wiser fashion. The truth is though, Gibson’s approach is working, and the kid is on fire, Grant stole a Win in Kentucky, but Gibson has the momentum. Outside of those two, there’s a slew of Suzukis fighting for podium position, for starters ATP’s Devin Heimes, and Josh Williams are flat out hauling, Chase Snapp is right there with them as well. Other contenders are Honda’s Travis Moore, Moto X-Perts Casey Martin, and KTM’s Joe Bruening. Keep your eyes on the Pro Am Classes, they’re incredibly fun to watch, and these guys will be the stars of the future.
I hope to be more consistent from here on out. See you at the races.
Give me a brake! brake maintenance tips
May 12, 2009
Did you know that your brake fluid in those fancy, modern, high-tech disc brakes on your machine is a maintenance item? I bet you also didn’t realize that it needs changing at regular intervals. In this article I will discuss why its important, my preferred method of flushing and bleeding the brake system, and some other parts to inspect or replace during these processes.

A comparison between new and old brake fluid, respectively
First off this tip is more for the seasoned machine, machines that are at least 1 or 2 years old. Brake fluid is one of those things that is commonly overlooked on automobiles and certainly on ATVs. It just sits in the system dutifully doing its job, rarely giving you any warning that its tired and worn out until other more expensive problems (and safety concerns) arise. Brake fluid has a very short “pot” life, once it has been exposed to the atmosphere is begins to degrade. Water is naturally attracted to it and saturates is breaking it down and thus making it more corrosive to internal braking components. Furthermore brake fluid has the tough job of transferring heat from the pads storing it to dissipate it later. This heat cycling lowers the boiling point over time. If your hard on your brakes the fluid can actually boil separating it and ultimately degrading any rubber parts such as the insides of the brake hoses.
The safety concern comes in with the brake hoses. Over time the hoses can collapse inside causing one of two different situations. First they can collapse after the brake has been applied, preventing the fluid from flowing back to the master cylinder after the brake has been released. This will cause the calipers to drag or stick “on”.
America’s Best ATV Riding
May 11, 2009
We’re doing a story in the upcoming (July) issue of ATV Magazine about the 25 best (and our favorite) ATV riding areas throughout the country – based on our team’s experience, uniqueness of terrain, quality of the trails, regional amenities and miles of available OHV riding.
Some of the locations on the list include Southern California’s Imperial Sand Dunes (of course!), New Mexico’s Carson National Forest, Grand Lake, Colorado, Coal Creek in Tennessee and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan – among 20 others.
Where do you all recommend? What are your favorite riding areas, and why? We are always looking for new places to check out, so comment or e-mail and let us know where you like to ride.
Follow the conversation at the ATV Magazine/ATV Sport forum at www.atvmagonline.com/forum.cfm.
Start Your Engines!
May 11, 2009
It seems like spring has come later than usual this year and if you’re anything like me you’ve put off prepping your machine for the coming riding season. Maybe its just the weather where I’m from but I was begining to doubt that spring would ever arrive. Alas, it is finally here and I’m gearing up for some exciting riding in the weeks to come.
If you were on the ball last winter and included a fuel system stabilizer in your machines fuel tank my hat’s off to you. Many of us I feel just put our machines in the shop, hoping for one last hoorah before the snow flies, only to realize weeks (or months) later that we never got that extra ride and never properly put our machine away for the season. Before you know it time gets away from you and spring is here and you’ve had gas siting in your machines tank and fuel system for four months. (I think I have started my old trusty LT 250R once since last labor day.)
The makers of the same fine stabilizer product you would or should’ve used when putting your ATV away for winter now offer a product to help your machine run smoothly when taking it out of storage. Start! Your Engines is a fuel sytem revitaliser designed to keep your carburator clean and free of buildup that might have developed during those idle months. “For quick, reliable starts of power equipment right out of storage and during season.” Start! Your Engines removes water and dries out the entire fuel system ensuring clean, correct opperation of your ATV each and every time you ride.
Even if you used a stabilizer when you parked your ATV adding Start! Your Engines to your ATV will ensure the fuel system stays clean and free of gum and varnish. One 4 oz can treats up to a gallon of fuel so figure out what the capacity of your specific tank is and keep your ATV running at peak performance all year long.




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